Vintages Taste and Buy Event
April 2008 
Here are David’s ratings from wines offered at Vintages Taste and Buy Event April 7 in Toronto, then at subsequent tastings in Ottawa and Waterloo. Wines not sold out at these events are now in Classics or will be offered through Vintages Latest email after May 16.  Best value red is Rockford 2002 Basket Press Shiraz (95 points, $68). Best Value White is Zind-Humbrecht 2005 Pinot Gris Heimbourg from Alsace (95 points, $54.95)                        
                                               
96  Lustau Murillo Pedro Ximenez, Spain  $58.50   41376

95  Rockford 2002 Basket Press Shiraz, Barossa Valley, Australia, $68.45 736488

95  Zind-Humbrecht 2005 Pinot Gris Heimbourg, Alsace, France $54.95  51888

95  Ch Mouton-Rothschild 2004 1er Cru, Pauillac, Bordeaux $395.00  669820

95  Bouchard Pere & Fils 2005 Clos Vougeots Grand Cru, Burgundy   $188.40  46540

95  Paolo Scavino 2003 Bric del Fiasc. Barolo, Italy  $123.95  51342

94  Elderton 2004 Ashmead Cabernet Sauvignon, Australia $59.90  952309

94  Grant Burge 2002 Meshach, Barossa Valley, Australia  $89.00 700310

94  Dom. Bois de Boursan 2004  Felix, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, $72.40  700948

94  Wegeler 2005 Riesling Spatlese Bernkasteler Doctor,  Germany $64.50 36137

93  Errazuriz  2005 La Cumbre Shiraz, Aconcagua Valley, Chile  $77.35 579821

93  Chateau Gilette  1982 Creme de Tete, Sauternes, France  139.85/375ml  49105

93  Font de Michelle 2004 Etienne Gonnet, Chateauneuf-du-Pape $68.45 706556

93  Condado de Haza 1999 Alenza, Ribera Del Duero, Spain  $79.00  723791

93  Viader 2004 Red, Napa Valley, California, $119.00  994004

92  Dom Christian Moreau 2005Vaudesir, Chablis Grand Cru  France  $61.00  29751

92  Henri Boillot 2004  Baudins, Chassagne-Montrachet, Burgundy  $99.20 48397

92  Dom de la Vieille Julienne 2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France  $73.00  38182

92  Ch. Pichon Lalande 2004  2eme Cru, Bordeaux $129.00 669721

92  Ch Haut-Brion 2004 1er Cru,  Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux  $329.00   669762

92  Dom. Jos. Voillot 2004 Les Champans, Volnay 1er Cru, Burgundy $64.50 15115

92  Elio Altare 2003 La Morra, Barolo, Italy  $94.20  51169

92  Carpineta Fontalpino  2004 Do Ut Des, Tuscany, Italy   $53.55  48827

92  Congilio 2000 Chardonnay, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand  $74.90  25460

91  Chateau Gilette 1985 Creme de Tete,  Sauternes, Bordeaux  123.95/375ml    

91  Mauro Molino 2003 Vigna Gallinotto, Barolo, Italy  $48.60  51227

91  Castello di Ama 2004 La Casuccia, Chianti Classico, Tuscany $205.25 979278

91  Luis Canas 2003 Hiru Tres Racimos,  Rioja, Spain  $122.00  40519

91  Von Strasser 2004 Cab. Sauvignon Diamond Mountain, Napa Valley $59.50 54601

91  De Loach  2005  Pinot Noir OFS,  Russian River Valley, California  $48.60  703926

90  Henschke 2002 Cyril Henschke Cab Sauvignon-Franc, Australia $131.95 46433

90  Casa Silva  2001 Altura, Colcahgua Valley, Chile  $74.40  685552

90  Veuve Clicquot  1993  Champagne, France  $71.00  918292

90  Ch.Vray-Croix-de-Gay 2003 Pomerol, Bordeaux, $88.25  592832

90  Stoney Ridge 2006 Larose, Waiheke Island,  New Zealand  $99.00  942201

90  Marimar Torres 2004 Dona Margarita Pinot Noir,  Sonoma Coast, $54.55    

89  Ch. Lafon-Rochet 2004  4eme Cru, St. Estephe, Bordeaux  $39.90  663617

89  Ch. La Mission Haut-Brion 2004 Grand Cru Classe,  Bordeaux  $193.35  669655

88  Creekside  2004 Broken Press Shiraz,  Niagara Peninsula  $31.75 48736

88  Dom Vincent Sauvestre 2004 Corton Charlemagne, Burgundy  $99.00  62133

88  Dom. Henri Gouges 2001 Porrets Nuits-St-Georges, Burgundy  $79.35     693747

87  KWV 2001 Perold, Paarl, South Africa  $89.00  993261

86  JJ Prum  2004 Riesling Auslese  Wehlener Sonnehur,  Germany  $59.00 65508

RT  Ruffino 2001 Il Greppone, Brunello di Montalcino,  Tuscany $91.25  672725

RT  Dom. Leflaive 2005 Clavoillon Puligny- Montrachet,  Burgundy  $125.00  737700
 

L'Aventure 2003 Optimus, California
I was in Calgary recently presenting at a series of conusmer and corporate events connected to the city's Savour wine and dine festival sponosred by Wine Access magazine. I love coming to Canada's only truly free wine market to encounter wines not usually seen in Ontario. On March 11 I presented seven wines at a corporate event, one being L'Aventure 2003 Optimus (93 points, $59.95 @ The Cellar in Calgary) a 51% syrah, 44% syrah, 5% petit verdot blend from a Paso Robles winery founded by ex-Bordeaux winemaker Stephan Asseo. This is big, gutsy, lean yet incredibly powerful and concentrated wine for the cellar. It needed almost two hours to open in the glass, so if you acquire it, plan to age it at least five years. It could drink well to 2020. The L'Aventure 2003 Syrah ($55.55 Vintages) is currently in Ontario (largest stock of 23 bottles at Queens Quay as of March 11), and although I have not tasted it, I suggest that it might well be worth investigating based on the success of its kin.

Mayacamus of Napa
Toronto importer Rob Groh of The Vine (www.robgroh.com) presented recent and library releases from Napa's legendary mountain winery - Mayacamus. The wines were explained by Chris Travers, son of the current (and fourth) owners of this property established in the 1880s!! high in the Mayacamus range between Napa and Sonoma. And explanation is required because these are very much Euro-traditional wines that fall out of the California mainstream. They are powerful, gutsy and complex, fraught with acidity and tannin that will take many years to meld into seamless elegance. And flavours of the current release 2002 Cabernet ($99.00, 90 points) are similarily complex and rustic with lifted blackcurrant, evergreen, leather and ashen minerality. It reminded me of a big Brunello. Limited quantities of the still very tannic, meaty and mineral-ethery 1995 (88 points), and the riper, powerful, still tannic 1994 (92 points) were also shown. At $245 bottle once needs to big a major fan of the style. The 2003 Chardonnay ($53.25, 90 points) is also sinewy, taut (no malolactic fermentation) and incredibly powerful, with mature, fascinating honeycomb, peanut-brittle, sawdust and buttermint candy aromas very mindful of big mature, white Burgundy.

Lammershoek of South Africa
On Feb 24 I tasted a range of imports at the launch of a new Peterborough-based wine importing “sub-agency” launched by Barb Reid.  One of the four agents pouring was Eleanor Cosman of Bokke Wines (www.bokkewines.com)  who represents Lammershoek of the Cape’s Swartland region. This house is making modern wines with old time depth and concentration. I am a big fan of the Roulette Blanc 2006 ($26.90, 91 points) a white barrel-aged blend of old vine chenin blanc, chardonnay and viognier that shows sumptuous richness, great acidity and length. The Roulette Red ($19.95, 89 points, Vintages March 1) is a shiraz-grenache-carginan red with authentic if slightly plumped up flavours of the southern Rhone. The Pinotage 2006 ($21.05, 89 points) is dark, meaty and quite tannic, with some mid-palate finesse – for those who miss this increasingly endangered species.

Opus One 2004, Napa Valley
($289.00, 91 points, Vintages March 29)
On February 22 I was in Toronto at Vintages media tasting for the March 29th release. I focused on organic wines for an upcoming article in the May edition of Toronto Life.  I also tasted Opus One 2004 from California and was under-whelmed. I have rated it 91 points, which translates as excellent, but at this price I want outstanding. It was showing too much nutty, cedary oak and almost overripe, figgy, cassis fruit. I thought of Rioja. Concentration and mid-palate texture are very impressive but it loses its way a bit on the finish amid the oak and alcohol. I could name several different $25 wines of equal quality, and could buy by the case for the  price of one bottle of Opus.

Cremant St. Nicolas Sparkling Light Cider
($10.50, 88 points, LCBO 61671)
This new general listing is a preview of what I expect will be a wave of Quebec apple wines flowing up the St. Lawrence River Valley into Ontario. Ontario's fruit wine industry is capable of these products but so far Quebec leads the way with a much larger and more sophisticated industry, whose iced ciders are gaining international recognition. This little gem is a wonderfully refreshing sparkler with a meagre alcohol of 2.8%, making it ideal summer lunch wine. It's off dry with lovely acidity and effervescence cleaning off the palate. The real joy is the purity and concentration of the apple flavours, from orchards on the banks of the St. Lawrence in St. Nicholas.  I enjoyed on a late Sunday afternoon with some Balderson 4 year old cheddar, and it almost ruined my appetite for dinner. It is available in 80 LCBO stores, and is represented by Barbara Murphy of Exqusitaste (exquisitate@sympatico.ca)

Prince Edward County Bubbly is Born
A couple of milestones were celebrated recently with the pop of a single cork at Huff Estate Winery in Prince Edward County. It was the first pouring of the first sparkling wine made in Canada’s newest VQA region, and the debut of Ontario’s most expensive sparkling wine to date (not counting sparkling icewine). Its proper name is Huff Estate 2004 Cuvée Peter F. Huff, named in honour of proprietor Lanny Huff’s late son. The price is $49.95—right up there with the many basic French champagnes that it dares emulate. See full story and brief reviews at www.torontolife.com/blogs/wine.

Rosehall Run 2006 Sullyzwicker Red, Prince Edward County
($17.95, 85 points, Winery)
It was a difficult year for red varietals in 2006, but by combining three, Dan Sullivan has created a quite deliciouslighter, fruity red. It is a blend of gamay (45%), cabernet franc (33%) and pinot noir (22%). Ageing in two year old barrels has lent background spice but it is essentially an orchard of ripe raspberry, blackberry and plum, with a touch of gamay’s pepperiness. Light weight, juicy and fresh with some delicacy and tension. Good length. Enjoy lightly chilled as a summer red. Coming to Vintages in March 2008

Robert Arnoux 2004 Chambolle-Musigny, Burgundy
($88.25, 93 points, Vintages 22442)
Encountered during the Burgundy session of the three-week Classic French reds course in Kingston, this svelte pinot noir confirmed once again why Chambolle-Musigny is a personal favourite. It was not the most profound wine served but very close. With such a harmonious, gentle yet richly flavoured profile it got closest to the almost ethereal essence of great Burgundy. Fruit was perfectly ripe in the realm of black raspberry, with floral notes and well knit leather, dried herbs and minerality. Still a bit closed and tannic on the finish, but those tannins are very fine. Excellent length. Great winemaking here. No stock is showing on the LCBO website, but this wine was purchased at Queens Quay in Toronto on January 13th.

 Bouchard Pere 2005 Beaune 1er Cru, Beaune de Chateau, Burgundy
($41.60, 91 points, Vintages)
Twelve wines were poured during the first class of the four week Introductory Course at Crush Wine Bar in Toronto on Jan 16. This class presents white and red Burgundies comparing them to chardonnays and pinot noirs from elsewhere. This young pinot from a terrific vintage was not the showiest in the tasting, but has a solid well proportioned structure and perfectly ripened fruit. Age it about five years. There are a few bottles left in some Vintages stores. Enter the LCBO # 901199 into Wine Search at www.lcbo.com to find stock near you. For other wines tasted this evening see the sidebar in courses.


Cattail Creek 2006 Riesling Reserve
($20.00, 87 points, winery only)
Roselyn Dyck-Cieszkowski opened Cattail Creek in 2007 based on vinifera production from a 100 acre vineyeard in Niagara-on-the-Lake that has been in her family snce 1957. This older vine riesling comes from 3 blocks, with one block planted in 1976 contributing 46%, and an old block of Alsatian clone adding 35%. It's bone dry, dense and powerful with a sulphur/wet wool note currently hindering ripe dried pear, pineapple fruit and waxy notes. Quite full bodied, fleshy and heavy with some minerality and heat on the finish. Excellent length. Needs a year more in bottle.

 Cave Spring 2005 Cabernet Franc, Beamsville Bench
($25.00 89 points, winery only)
Spent a fascinating day tasting for terroir and sub-appellation identity and doing some 2007 barrel sampling, along Niagara’s Beamsville Bench - at Featherstone, Malivoire and Cave Spring. Of finished/released wines one of the most interesting was Cave Spring’s 2005 Cabernet Franc; their first cab franc from a new Estate vineyard planted to the E4 clone. It adds to and helps explain the growing body of Niagara wineries finally ushering in cab franc with elegance, nuance and lovely raspberry ripeness instead of cab franc’s that are overly green, over extracted and over-oaked.

Results of the Canadian Culinary Championships
Toronto, ON:  Following three intensely competitive evenings, it was Chef Melissa Craig of Bearfoot Bistro in Whistler, who emerged as Canada’s Best Chef as part of the Canadian Culinary Championships held in Toronto February 7, 8 and 9.  Toronto’s Anthony Walsh of Canoe was awarded the silver medal and Roland Menard of Manior Hovey, representing the Montreal region, took home bronze.

The competition began Thursday evening with a Black Box Challenge held in the instructional kitchens of George Brown College.  The seven competing chefs had one hour to prepare two dishes using six mystery ingredients, which included two Georgian Bay whitefish, Top Meadow Farms flank steak, a celery root, a bag of Ontario peanuts, a honeycomb oozing honey and a handful of green plantains. 

 Friday evening was the Mystery Wine Pairing, whereby chefs prepared a dish they felt perfectly suited the mystery bottle of wine they had received the evening before, a delicious Closson Chase Chardonnay by winemaker Deborah Paskus. They were also given $400 to shop for ingredients to feed the 150+ guests in attendance.  Invited guests were able to taste the chefs’ creations and cast their own ballot.  Emerging as the people's choice winners for this single event were:  Gold - Anthony Walsh, Toronto, Silver - Michael Moffatt, Ottawa, Bronze - Judy Wu, Edmonton.

There were no obvious frontrunners heading into the Grande Finale event Saturday, held at Toronto’s Arcadian Court. But it was Melissa Craig’s King crab dish that captured gold.  She presented a small cone of bamboo leaf with a tender flesh from the claw inside, garnished with tobiko and some soy-sauce pop rocks. There was a delicately flavoured crab croquette, spherical and golden-crusted, sitting on a little pool of mango-basil purée. Lastly, a demitasse of king crab soup – white, full-bodied with coconut milk and with a gentle lemongrass and chili hit. Melissa paired the dish with a bracingly acidic Tantalus Vineyards Riesling 2006 which the judges deemed to be the best wine match of the evening.

An underdog in the truest sense, Melissa Craig was a last minute contender, asked to step in as the silver medallist representing Vancouver when the city’s gold medal chef, Pino Posteraro could not make the national finals.

The judges – all leading Canadian food and wine critics, headed by James Chatto - were impressed with each of the competing chefs’ dishes that best exemplified creativity, brilliance and individuality during each of the competitions. 

Chatto, author and restaurant critic for Toronto Life Magazine, said that ``there was much more parity between the contestants this year'' at the final competition.   ``There was no clear winner from the beginning. All seven chefs were within six percentage points of each other, which meant that anybody could win it which was quite exciting.''

 Stephen Leckie, CEO and Founder of Gold Medal Plates, said “Gold Medal Plates was delighted to stage this year’s Canadian Culinary Championships in Toronto.  The three evening competition was highly entertaining for guests, competitive and truly showed the substantial culinary talent and quality of wine that Canada has to offer.”

The weekend was graced with numerous celebrities such as Jim Cuddy of Blue Rodeo, Sonja Smits, Justin Trudeau and triple Olympic medalists - Marnie McBean and Curt Harnett. 

Gold Medal Plates would like to thank each of the chefs for participating in the Canadian Culinary Championships which celebrates Canadian excellence in cuisine, wine and athletics.

 The seven competing chefs:

Melissa Craig of Bearfoot Bistro in Whistler (Vancouver)
Paul Rogalski of Rouge (Calgary)
Judy Wu of Wild Tangerine (Edmonton)
Anthony Walsh of Canoe (Toronto)                                                                       
Michael Moffatt of Beckta Dining and Wine (Ottawa-Gatineau)
Roland Ménard of Manoir Hovey (Montréal)
Martin Ruiz Salvador of Fleur de Sel (Halifax)